Growing orchids can be one of the most rewarding and satisfying hobbies that you will ever undertake . When you do begin growing orchids, one thing is absolutely certain, you will need to be well informed and knowledgeable on the growing of orchids and orchid care. This article will help you to get started with some useful orchid growing tips that I feel are the most important when just starting this exciting adventure.

Selecting Your Orchid

There are three species of orchids that are most suitable for growing indoors. These are the phalaenopsis or moth orchids that requires not so much light and can adapt easily to indoor settings. The Cattleya species which requires much more light to grow well indoors and finally there is the Dendrobiums species. Orchids that grow well outdoors are the Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya Hybrids, Laelia, and Stanhopea.

Essential H2O

The knowledge of Watering is probably one of the most important factors when growing orchids. The right combination of air and water should be thought of carefully when watering orchids, as excess moisture can cause the roots to rot which is true of most plants. Some varieties of orchids prefer their roots dry, while others need more moisture. The amount of watering should depend on the temperature and humidity of the environment, and the species of the orchids.

Tropical orchids need a warm, humid atmosphere because most of them do not have superior root systems. You must have a water tank or pool in the center of the plants to provide the moisture. Orchids should be watered 2-3 times a day and should not be allowed to dry up during the summer months. Growing plants need extra water just like plants in baskets need more water than those in pots. Orchids which have recently been potted should be watered cautiously while waiting for the new roots to emerge.

Humid conditions should be provided as well. Anywhere between 60-70% should do. Humidity is also very important for these plants. Typically if the substrate is moist and the temperature is set to the correct levels then the humidity will take care of itself with the aid of the live plants. Humidity plays a large part and is one of the most important orchid growing tips I can give you.

The Energy of the Sun

The third orchid growing tips is that orchids require enough light not only to stay alive, but also to grow and ultimately to produce flowers. A good indication is to determine if they are receiving enough light is by examining the leaves. Moderate to light green leaves means they are getting the right amount, while deeper and dark green leaves means the level of light is not that good. Excessive heat may cause the leaves to suffer sunburn and also exhaust the food reserves of the plant. If you notice that the leaves are yellowing like autumn leaves then you know that they have had to much heat.

Feeding Your Orchids

The minerals that are essential for orchids and are easily depleted are the following: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Growers differ in the fertilizer compositions and regiments they employ. Inorganic fertilizers that combine mineral salts and are soluble in water are the easiest to use and most commonly available. High phosphorus content in fertilizer is said to be the factor responsible for stimulating and increasing orchid flowering. The decrease in excess nitrogen allows for more abundant blooms among orchids.

Pots and Mixes

The final piece of advice from my orchid growing tips is to ensure you have the correct pot for your orchid. Believe it or not but this is of primary importance! There are three types of pots, plastic, terracota and basket. I prefer terracota and I always make sure the pot is the right size for my orchid. With regards to mixes I use a combination of organic fibers and inorganic materials. The organic choices are Fir Bark, Redwood Bark, Coconut Husks, Sphagnum Moss and tree Fern Fiber and for Inorganic choices include Charcoal, Lava rock, Alifor are, Pearlite and Turface.

By: James R Connor
James Connor is an Orchid specialist who has a number of websites on the care and cultivation of Orchids. If you would like to know more check out OrchidGrowingTips.org for more information about Growing Orchids and receive Your FREE Report on Growing Orchids.

There is very little that is more beautiful or that looks more magical when incorporated into your landscape than a climbing rose. It is impossible to look at a rose encrusted vine creeping up the side of a trellis and not have romantic thoughts. Although climbing roses are most often found weaving up and around a trellis, it is possible to train one to climb the side of a building, to wind around a decorative column, or accent a boundary. Some clever gardeners have even used climbing walls to turn fences into living works of art.

One of the concerns that many rose lovers have when they are looking at incorporating climbing roses into their garden is that some climbing roses are not capable of withstanding the elements, however over the years botanists have been able to create several species of climbing roses that are capable of living through the unpredictable weather that many states experience. When you are selecting a climbing rose, make sure you are confident that one you select has been bred to survive your winters.

There are three basic types of climbing roses that you can choose from.

Rambling Roses

Rambling climbing roses are perhaps the most impressive in terms of growth. Some surprised growers have reported that their rambling roses have grown twenty feet in a single season. Several varieties of rambling roses have extremely large blooms. The downside to rambling roses is that they seem to be extremely susceptible to mildew.

True Climbers

True climbers are the perfect choice for any rose lover who is looking for a climbing rose that has extremely large blossoms. These roses have clusters of blossoms making the already large blooms look even larger. When you are looking at true climbers you should know that there are actually two types of true climbing roses; climbing hybrid tea roses and bush climbers. The climbing hybrid tea roses usually do not bloom as long as bush climbers and they are more susceptible to disease.

Trailers

Trailing roses are an excellent choice in climbing roses because they are extremely resistant to the diseases that often compromise other varieties of climbing roses. The downside to growing trailing roses is that they need to be staked or they will not have enough support to grow properly.

When to Plant Climbing Roses

Climbing roses do best when they are planted in the early spring. Since the start of spring can vary from state to state, you should check when the best time to start planting. Make sure that there is no chance that you are going to experience a frost after you have planted your roses. Your climbing rose will be more likely to survive winter if it has had a minimum of six months to establish a solid root base.

Caring for Climbing Roses

After you have planted your climbing rose you need to make sure that you are vigilant about watering it a least once a week, make sure that you do not over water it as mildew is one of the leading causes of rose death. When your rose has grown enough so that it reaches whatever you want it climb, make sure you fasten it to the object, this will train it to properly climb.

By: Kirby Cranson
http://www.creditbest.net/
A self-professed personal finance geek. I search for, read about, talk about, and postulate about personal finance when I am not working or sleeping.

A spider plant is a great choice for a houseplant. It is attractive and easy to take care of. It is possible to over or under water, but they are much more resilient than other plants. They also have a long life span.

The plants have long leaves that are narrow and come in other variations such as dark green with yellow striping, variegated, speckled and more. A spider plant will grow fast and produce a lot of foliage, which means they are a great choice for decorating. When they grow, they also tolerate being root bound quite well.

The watering requirements of the plant require a very small effort, however do not over water because it can cause root rot. A consistently moist soil with occasional dry periods is best recommended. Spider plants can go for several days without being watered, especially during the fall and winter, when they are less active.

If you see the tips are growing brown or become spotted, you need to change the kind of water you are using. If you have been using tap water, then it is okay depending where you live. If in the city, the water supply may have a high chlorine concentration and possibly fluorine as well. These minerals can damage your plant, so try using rainwater or purified water free of minerals to see if the problem will be alleviated.

Spider plants are flexible with light requirements, they do quite well in indirect sunlight, but can also handle direct and bright lights for several hours daily. The idea is to give them a few hours of light that is not in an area that is too hot or too cold. They can stand temps anywhere from 55-65° F, this is a part of their natural environment.

The plants are very easy about fertilizer requirements also, but it is important no to overdo it. A liquid NPK mix applied to the plant every three to four months is sufficient during the growing season. There is no need to do it in the fall or winter, that means generally they only get two or three feedings per year.

In the summer time, spider plants produce small, star shaped flowers that are white. The flowers grow along the stalk that can reach over three feet in length. If you notice the stalk is leaning or bending, it is a good idea to stake it. The plant may also bloom more than once and can develop flowers again in spring or early fall.

Spider plants make a beautiful hanging basket, particularly when they are older and have an abundance of leaves. They can grow out of a pot, so you need to divide and replant about every two years. Spider plants can reach a few feet wide and even apart from flower stalks, can get up to two feet in height. A healthy plant can grow so much it will crack a clay pot.

You can add a beautiful look to your indoor plant garden with this plant that is easy to take care of, you should try a spider plant.

By: Kent Higgins
Now you can remove the confusion in your mind on the topic of caring for spider plants. Don't be shy - check us out at plant-care.com.

Moon Phase Planting of Lettuce

Lettuce should be planted when the moon is in the 1st Quarter (i.e. waxing) and in one of the following Zodiac Signs: Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces, Libra, Taurus

Planting and Culture

Almost any fairly good garden soil that is well drained and not excessively acid is suitable for lettuce. The only real secret about growing fine plants is to keep them uncrowded and growing rapidly. Rapid growth demands an abundance of moisture plus an abundance of natural plant nutrients. Mature compost humus or well-rotted manure should be dug in along the row before the seed is sown. In transplanting, a generous amount of organic humus should be worked into the hole before the plant is set out.

Wild lettuce prefers a temperate climate and its cultivated descendants naturally thrive best during cool weather, although some loose-leafed strains are valued for their ability to grow during summer heat.

Heading lettuce may be planted to head-up either during the early summer or the fall. For the early crop the seed should be sown about 1/4 inch deep in flats or similar containers and placed in a sunny window or a cold frame about the beginning of March. The young plants should be ready to set out early in April. In the flats, the seed should be thinly sown and the seedlings thinned just as soon as the leaves touch. Probably no fault is more universal than sowing lettuce seed too thickly.

For the spring crop, start seed indoors in flats or pots in a sunny, cool (50 to 60°F. [10 to 15.56'C.]) location. Or, sow seed outside in a hotbed or cold frame, about four to six weeks before the last severe frost. One seed packet will sow a 100-foot row. For a good potting mixture, sift together one part sand, one part good loam and one part compost. Keep moist and, when the seedlings have at least their first set of true leaves, transplant to plant bands or flats. Gradually harden off the plants by setting them outdoors during the sunny part of the day.

Transplanting

Setting the transplants out very early is essential. In fact, some gardeners make a practice of sowing their lettuce seed in the fall in a carefully prepared area. The seedlings become fairly large before severe frost. As cold weather approaches, the seedlings are covered with a gradually deepened layer of loose straw, leaves, twigs, or other materials. Under this, the small plants survive the winter easily and the gardener has a heavy supply of sturdy, very early seedlings upon which to draw.

In setting out the transplants, put them about 15 inches apart in the row in rows about two feet apart. When seed is sown directly into the garden, the seedlings should be ruthlessly thinned to stand at least a foot apart to prevent overcrowding.

Care

In the early stages of growth the plant has a cluster of shallow feeding rootlets. This condition makes it ideal for transplanting but, while small, makes it an easy victim of weeds. A light mulching of compost sifted around the plants will do much to keep down weedy growth and later will supply easily available plant nutrients.

Lettuce plants will not do their best unless they have a very liberal supply of moisture. Normally the supply of rainwater is insufficient and unreliable. It will aid your plants to continue rapid growth during dry weather if you water them with rainwater which has filtered through a container holding a quantity of fertile compost.

It may be that for one of many reasons your plants do not reach the heading stage before the arrival of hot weather. Many gardeners have had this experience. ' The most popular solution to the problem consists in covering the plants so as to give them partial shade. A few stakes driven into the ground along the sides of the rows may be used to support a length of cheesecloth stretched upon them.

A slightly heavier framework may be made to support a thin layer of brush, or a slat roof in which the slats are alternated with spaces about equal to the width of the slats. Any such arrangement which excludes excessive sunlight will usually produce the coolness necessary to the plants if they are to form satisfactory heads. Some gardeners make good use of a partially shaded spot in the garden as a favored site for lettuce.

Diseases and Pests

Lettuce rot, which first affects the lowest leaves in contact with the soil and then spreads through the plant, can be avoided by spreading clean sand over the surface of the soil. Fungus and bacterial diseases are best avoided by rotating the crop. Do not plant lettuce in the same rows two years in succession and do not plant where endive, chicory or dandelion have just grown. These are all subject to the same diseases.

Insects which cause the greatest damage in new lettuce plantings are cutworms and slugs. Cutworms may be outwitted if loose collars of stiff paper are put on the seedlings when they are planted. The collars are made about one to 1 1/2 inches in diameter and are wide enough so that when 1/2 inch is buried in the soil an inch or more remains as a barricade above ground.

If slugs are a problem, limestone or wood ashes may be sprinkled over the soil around the plants to discourage them. In a wet season when slugs are very bad, do not use small baskets or boxes to cover newly planted seedlings. These only act as shelters during the hot part of the day and slugs may sometimes be found by the dozens inside inverted berry boxes. Instead, shade seedlings with a canopy held a foot or more above the bed.

Harvesting

Pick lettuce in the early morning hours to preserve the crispness it acquired during the cool of the night. Immediately after being picked, it should be washed thoroughly but as briefly as possible and dried immediately to prevent loss of vitamins. If stored in a closed container in the refrigerator, it will retain its crispness for days.

Loose-leaf types should be cut off at ground level and the roots left in the soil. Later in the season the roots will send up new leaves for a second crop.

By: Gene DeFazzio
moonGROW.com http://www.moonGROW.com is a website delving into Moon Phase and Zodiac Sign Organic gardening. By Gene DeFazzio, this site provides the basics of both astrological and organic growing for the home gardener.