Looking for a distinctive tree to add to your garden or landscape design? One of the most popular choices today is the Japanese Maple. Within the genus Acer, the maple trees, you will find a couple of species broken up into over 1,000 cultivated varieties that are generally accepted as "Japanese" Maples. This is unfortunate for gardeners, because when you purchase a Japanese Maple, you are usually looking to add a very specific accent to your garden. And with so many choices from red, lace leaf Japanese Maple trees to variegated green and gold dwarf varieties it may be difficult to find exactly what you are looking for.

Japanese Maple Species

First, the two acer species that generally qualify as Japanese Maples are the very popular Acer Palmatum and the Downy Japanese maple or Acer Japonicum. A few cultivars, such as Acer shirasawavum, the full moon maple, are different enough that they are often classified as separate species. Palmatum varieties tend to be more delicate and not quite as cold-hardy as Japonicum, but they have the very distinct Japanese Maple look, with spreading branches and densely clumped foliage that forms into horizontal layers. Japonicum is slightly taller--many over 30 feet--and tends to grow a little more up than out.

Describing Japanese Maple Habit

When you purchase an Acer, or any plant, and you hear someone mention its habit, they are referring to its characteristic form--the plant's mode of growth. They may use words like dwarf, semi-dwarf, horizontal, tufted, and weeping. Once you know what all this means, you can easily pick the exact tree that you want. Dwarf varieties are shrubs that are less than four feet tall. Semi-dwarf refers to smaller trees, usually no more than 10 feet tall. When a tree's habit is described as horizontal, it means that the foliage forms horizontal layers. Tufted means that the leaves grow together from the same point, forming little clumps of dense foliage. Weeping limbs are long and thin, and they grow towards the ground.

Describing Japanese Maple Foliage

The foliage of Japanese Maples varies a great deal from one cultivar to the next, and it can be difficult to find what you want. Retailers often discuss the leaf color and shape in their descriptions, because they strongly affect the overall look of the tree. Variegation is the presence of multiple colors on one leaf. Because of the immense range of hues offered by Acers, variegation can sometimes be quite dramatic. They range from the bright green to the deep red varieties that have names like "Bloodgood" and "Crimson Queen," and the fall foliage of acers hits every color on the visible spectrum except blue. Often the cut of the leaf will be mentioned--this is just the depth of the separation of the lobes of a single leaf. The deeper the cut, the more delicate the leaf. Extreme examples of this trait would be the dissectum or lace-leaf varieties, such as "Seiryu" and "Emerald Lace."

The Best Acer For Your Garden?

The purpose for your specific Japanese Maple purchase ultimately determines which variety you should choose. For a tree to plant as a specimen that will stand alone, you would most likely pick a variety you found to be the most interesting overall. If you are planting a Japanese-themed garden, the varieties you choose should exhibit a very typical ancient Japanese look, often to the point of exaggeration. Beyond hard landscaping, your Acers will highlight the theme more than anything else in your garden. Look for the ones that fit the size of your space and the colors you want include. And if you are choosing a variety for bonsai, dwarf varieties with small, but interesting foliage are recommended.

In short, the best Acer for your garden is the Japanese Maple that speaks to you with its habit, color, and leaf shape, and makes the statement that your special garden deserves.

By: Thomas Andrews
Thomas Andrews is a garden writer for Wayside Gardens, an Online and Mail-Order provider of Perennials, Roses, Trees and Shrubs for American Gardens.

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Every year more than one million trees are planted on public and private properties throughout North America, these are not the trees are not planted as a part of a reforestation project, they are the trees that we use for personal and community ambience. Of these trees, less than 50 percent will survive more than two years.

Shock From Transplanting:

The greatest transplanting shock comes from the loss of the tree's root system that occurs when the tree is dug up at the tree farm. Placing the tree in shock makes it much more vulnerable to disease, insects, drought and other potential life threatening situations. The transplant shock lasts until the root system is fully replaced to the level it was prior to being removed from the tree farm. Most trees that die after being transplanted do so during the period of time prior to restoration of the full root system. Although there is no method of transplanting that will guaranty that a tree will not die, regular care and good gardening practices, for a three-year period following the transplant, will definitely improve the trees likely hood of survival.

Transplanting and Tree Roots:

A healthy trees root system grows horizontally, even the main structural roots grow horizontally from the base of the trunk rather than vertically. Ask anyone who has tried to plant flowers near the base of a tree. The root system will generally extend to an area well beyond that of the visible branch coverage. The thicker roots which are located close to the tree trunk do not absorb water and nutrients, those roots are the fine roots and they are usually located within a four to ten inch depth below surface grade. For proper tree growth there must be a balance between the foliage of the tree and the root system.

In most cases when a tree is removed from its original location more than 95 percent of the root system is left in the ground. That leaves only five percent of the system to supply 100 percent of the required water and nutrients to the tree. Hence, the trees root system cannot supply water at the rate that the crown is capable of dissipating it. Without the required water, the tree cannot produce an adequate supply of carbohydrates, and it makes the tree susceptible to disease, resulting in the death of the tree.

Regeneration of Root Systems For Transplanted Trees:

Regeneration of the root system is the primary key to ensure that the tree does not die due to the transplanting. It is critical that the visible part of the tree remains healthy during the period of time that it is regenerating its root system. Initially the root system will receive the necessary carbohydrates to induce growth from those stored in the trunk and branches of the tree. In order to ensure that the tree remains healthy after transplanting it is of critical importance that the tree continues to produce adequate levels of carbohydrates throughout the growing season, and even more important during the first year after the transplanting has occurred.

Some people believe that the best way to ensure a healthy tree after transplanting is to prune the tree so that the root system does not have to provide as much water and nutrients. This is an incorrect procedure! If you leave the tree as delivered it will aid in supporting the growth of the root system. The only pruning that should take place is cutting away any damaged or broken tree branches or limbs. To assist the root system you must continue to supply water as ambient water will be insufficient to promote a healthy root system.

There is no defined time frame for the root system to re-establish itself as it dependent on the size of the root ball, soil conditions, and climate. Bigger trees loose more root system when originally removed than smaller trees. Hence, it will take longer for a big tree to create its root system than a smaller tree, providing all other factors remain constant.

Tests have indicated that for a tree with a one inch diameter trunk it may take from four to seven years for the root system to be back to 100 percent efficiency, depending on the type of tree, climate, soil and moisture. A ten-inch tree could take as long as 15 years to replace its entire root system.

The growth of the root system and new upper tree growth is dramatically reduced post transplant. You may however notice a lot of new twigs the first year after transplanting. This is because the buds were formed prior to the tree being removed from its original location. Following the first year, the amount of new upper tree growth will be directly related to the growth of the root system. This provides a visual indication of how root growth is proceeding - few new buds, little root growth.

Planting Techniques and On-Going Care:

The tree you choose and the location you are going to place it must be a match. Picking the wrong tree for the sites soil conditions will mean that the root system may never fully regenerate itself. If you choose the right tree for the location and provide the proper care, there is no reason to believe that the tree will not survive and grow. Tree type, soil conditions, and care will definitely reduce the likely hood of death due to insect attack and disease.

Planting:

Carefully consider the size of the hole needed for the tree you are about to plant. Most individual have a tendency to dig a hole that is correct in depth but incorrect in width. The width of the hole should be a minimum of three times the diameter of the root ball. If you are planting in an area that is always wet, the tree can be planted so that a third of the root ball is above the final grade. By doing this the majority of the root system will remain above soil that is water saturated.

Use the soil removed from the hole to fill in the area around the root ball. If you are adding an organic soil additive then the area that this new mixture fills should be large enough for a 3 to 5 year root growth.

Watering:

Watering seems to be the area that confuses the vast majority of individuals. There appears to be many different theories on the amount of water needed and how often to apply that water. This could be because depending on where you live soil and the associated climate will make a dramatic difference to the amount of watering needed. Soil moisture is critical to your new tree's survival, to little and it will die of drought, to much and you will saturate the soil, removing the space required for oxygen. The consensus of opinion is that a transplanted tree needs one-inch of water a week for the first year. It is best to check with your local nursery for exact recommendations for your area.

Mulching:

Three to four inches of wood or bark chips placed over the area that has been excavated for the tree will maintain the moisture in the soil and control soil temperature swings. Mulch will also inhibit the growth of weeds and grass, both of which compete for the moisture and nutrients in the soil. It is not recommended that you replace any sod that was removed to dig the hole nor is it wise to plant flowers at the tree base during the first year.

By: Bill Prudehome
Bill Prudehome has more than 25 years experience in home improvement, remodel and landscaping. Through his website - Renovation-Headquarters.com he provides a wealth of information on all aspects of home improvement, remodel and landscaping.

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Palm trees are popular in gardens all over the world and are usually found in the tropics, costal regions, deserts and generally warmer areas. Some species grow faster than other species, particularly due to the climate which affects the growth in most types of palm trees. Some palm trees need continually warmer weather while some can bear the colder climates. In some trees, the warmer weather results in faster growth and, in those trees, the trunk becomes taller more quickly. This is important to consider when choosing the appropriate plants for your garden, particularly if you want a tall line of trees in a shorter period of time.

There are several types of palm trees varying by commonality to growth rate. Queen Palms are the most common species of palm trees and, actually, do fairly well in the colder climates. Queen Palms need a lot of water and quality soil. They reach around twenty-five feet in a time span of seven to ten years, but they can reach a height of sixty feet. The King Palm is a faster growing tree and grows faster with full sun. It requires a rich and nutrient soil and plenty of water, but with good care these trees can reach twenty-five feet in ten years and have a maximum height potential of approximately forty feet. The King Palm is a good species choice if you desire a shade or canopy of trees.

Another choice in faster growing trees is the Majesty Palm, which reaches around ten feet in ten years and can reach thirty-five feet within a twenty year period of time. This palm needs soil rich in magnesium and, as expected, plenty of water though they do not do well near the ocean due to the abundance of salt in the air. The King Kong or Black Trunk Palms are also faster growing trees with the potential to reach eight feet tall. Unlike some other species, though, this tree grows in width before it grows in height and also grows large, horizontal leaves. It is one of the wider types as far as trunk diameter. Finally, the Royal Palms are moderately fast in growth, possibly reach twenty feet in ten years with quality care. This tree requires a nutrient rich soil, a lot of sun and plenty of water. Similar to the King Kong or Black Trunk species, the Royal Palms grow a wider trunk before growing tall. It does not grow well in colder weathers, specifically before twenty six degrees Fahrenheit.

As you see, the needs of palm trees vary by species. You must consider the needs of the different types before you plant it to be sure you can meet its requirements and allow it to grow to its full potential. Some do well in continually warmer weathers, while some can handle the occasional colder weather. Also, be sure to ask the nursery about the day length of each type of plant. Some trees need a lot of continual sun while others do better in partial sun. It is important to understand the heat and sun requirements for the tree you choose.

By: Peter Wilson
Peter J. Wilson regularly edits detailed reports on information on plants and palms. You can come across his publications on palm trees over at http://www.alicante-spain.com.

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