It seems that every growing season at least a half-dozen visitors to our gardens ask about ground covers for difficult locations. Descriptions of their growing conditions almost always run along the same line and, more often than not, these descriptions can be quite comical. Comical, that is, if you’re inclined to be patient and have a sense of humor.

Most of these gardeners are looking for that perfect ground cover—one which doesn't need mowing (mostly because it'll be on a steep bank where either nothing grows or it’s too dangerous to mow). It must grow and prosper in very poor soil and is very fast growing. Yet, it mustn't be invasive—they don't want their perfect ground cover to take over the rest of their yard or try to get in the back door. And it has to perform well in all-day blistering-hot sun or deepest, darkest shade.

They say it's got to be able to handle either very wet and very dry soil—if any real soil at all—and they don't want it to attract insects, vermin or snakes. Oh. . .and they want it to have flowers throughout most of the growing season. Did I mention that it must tolerate lots of road salt and car exhaust? There's more.

It has to look really great without fertilizer or watering, they insist, and it's got to be thick enough to prevent weeds from coming up through and around it. As if all that's not enough, because they don't want to have to go to the trouble of digging out all the weeds, brambles and poison ivy, they want to just be able to scatter a few seeds or stick in a few little plants here and there, and have them grow so fast and so lush that these "perfect" ground cover babies will crowd out blackberries, goldenrod and dandelions.

Then comes the requirement that never fails to bring a smile to my face: ". . .and my bank is about 75 feet long. You think six or eight plants'll be enough? Oh, and one more thing, I don't want to spend any more than about $25 so you’ll need to tell me how to divide the plants once I get ‘em home.”

"So, let me get this straight," I’ve been known to say, "you've got a bank in the sun that has little or no soil on it; you aren't planning on clearing it of weeds, poison ivy and berry vines; you don't intend to add any compost, fertilizer or water; you won’t be mowing it or pulling the weeds out before you plant; you want it to grow like gang-busters but not get too far out of hand; and. . .let's see. . .eight plants in 75 feet. . .how wide did you say it was?. . eight feet? Well, that works out to one full sized plant for about every 75 square feet. . .and you say this has to be done for $25 or less?"

"Excuse me? Did I hear you say it's got to look good for a wedding reception next June?" File THAT under never! It’s all I can do to keep from roaring with laughter...or dismay.

Ok. . .ok, so I exaggerated a little—but only a little! Believe it or not, that totally unrealistic set of requirements is heard more often than you think. . .certainly more often than I want to hear.

So, is there such a "perfect" ground cover? One which meets all those difficult criteria?

No...unless you include asphalt or cement in the list.

Actually, there are a few incredibly tough plants that don't mind desperately poor soil. Creeping phlox is one; ajuga is another; creeping thyme doesn't do too bad, either. And there are some pretty rugged sedums that'll grow just about anywhere. I've got all of these growing in nearly 100% pure, straight off the truck, compacted, driveway gravel. But, I tell them, even these remarkably tough types need a bit softer start in life. A scattering of compost or old manure; some fertilizer tossed on the bank at least once each season; a sprinkler set out there during the first 6 to 8 weeks; and climb up there and pull some weeds once in a while.

"Oh, no. . .no,” they often say with a shake of their head, "Now just you hold on a minute there mister. None of them have flowers on ‘em all season. I don't like Ajuga—it's too common. . .like a weed. Creeping phlox has some nice color but it only lasts a couple of weeks. Creeping thyme is way too short. And sedum? E-e-e-u-u. . .it's yellow! Everyone else in our neighborhood has yellow! It's too far to lug water, and I don't have a hose long enough to reach. Besides we just have a shallow well and can't waste water on plants. And another thing: I haven't got time to do all the stuff you tell me I gotta do." That’s usually the point at which I inform them that I, therefore, have nothing for them...and suggest they try somewhere else.

So, they go to one of the big box stores where they find a (probably only marginally-trained) salesperson who’ll tell (and sell) them just about anything necessary to move merchandise and increase sales numbers. Then, a couple of years later, they're back in their neighborhood nursery buying trays of ajuga, creeping phlox, creeping thyme and yellow sedums. Hosta, daylilies, geraniums and pachysandra—they've learned the hard (and expensive) way—really don't care for rocky, gravelly, dry, sunny banks.

So, what’s the answer?

First, adjust your expectations to a more reasonable level. Flowering plants, unless they’re highly invasive, can only grow so fast. Commit to establishing enough plants to get the job done in a reasonable amount of time. If it’s total coverage you want, ask an expert how fast they’ll grow, then count on two to three years for the individual plants to “connect.” Don’t—please don’t—buy a plant in a little pot and, once you get it home, start cutting it into smaller pieces in an effort to stretch your gardening budget. That kind of “economizing,” in this case, is poor—and often fatal—economy.

Now, even if it’s a steep bank or other equally difficult patch of ground, the weeds, brambles and seedling trash-trees have to come out. You cannot get around that. So many well-meaning people neglect this completely necessary step...no...requirement...and doom themselves and their “gardening” efforts to failure. Puts me in mind of the would-be wildflower meadow devotee who spends hundreds on exquisitely-expensive wildflower seeds then scatters them across a weedy vacant lot, roadside or grassland that hasn’t even been mowed, let alone cultivated and even modestly improved. Instant success, as the label suggests? Instant failure, more likely!

Then the soil really needs to be at least somewhat improved, even if that’s accomplished by the addition of as little as an inch of compost or sterilized manure from the local box store. And don’t forget to work it into what’ll become the root zone. Simply leaving it on the soil surface would have much the same effect as a building contractor nailing together a new home on a pile of sand...without a foundation. Just as a structure needs a good foundation, so also do plants.

Once the plants are in the ground, bite the bullet...and keep the soil consistently moist—at least until they’re established and begin a fresh flush of seasonal growth. While you’re at it, include at least a once-annual feeding in your bullet-biting. There’s a wise old rule among working people: “No work...no eat!” Apply that philosophy to any form of gardening: “No food...no grow!” And no success. And no satisfaction in knowing you did your best. And no compliments from houseguests and neighbors.

Lastly, there’s no way around this one, either: get into that now-planted difficult spot at least twice a season and get those weeds and unwanted growing things out before they go to seed! It might help if you heard another wise ‘ol gardening saying: “One year seed...seven years weeds!” You let an unwanted or undesirable plant (weed) mature a crop of seeds just once, and you’ll spend the next seven years on your soiled knees with grimy hands, broken nails and disappearing fingerprints.

By: Fred Davis
Fred Davis is a Master Gardener, Master Composter, lecturer, and long-time nurseryman. He and his wife, Linda, own and operate a popular perennial nursery in Palermo, Maine, and maintain a no-nonsense gardening information website at: http://www.HillGardens.com, where you'll find answers to your gardening questions, a free, no-nonsense, downloadable book about responsible gardening, and many more articles like this one.

Featured by Resources For Attorneys, a Legal and Lifestyle information directory.

Visit our Garden Directory.

When you switch from planting lawn grasses to planting ground cover the possibilities are practically unlimited. Grass is great for ball games, picnics, playing, and normal traffic areas. But grass requires more maintenance and uses more water than any of the rest of your landscape. Ground cover is a great complement to your grass lawn to minimize maintenance and add elegance to your landscape. Ground cover is a low-growing,ground-hugging perennial plants that carpet an area with blooms or usually colored foliage. The secret to using ground cover successfully is to choose the right ones. Many varieties of plants make excellent ground covers. Are you tired of the extra maintenance it takes around trees or shrubs to keep them looking good? Use pachysandra or ajuga instead. Under trees or on a slope where grass grows thin try ground huggers like barberry or lamium or vinca these plants will prevent erosion.

Along a sunny walk or a bright spot in your garden try strawberry plants. In addition to the pleasing appearance there is the added bonus of the fruit. The plants will keep producing fruit for years to come. Creeping thyme is excellent between stepping stones .There is also the added benefit of the fragrance every time you walk through. Each step will produce waves of fragrance. The charming evergreen ground cover creeping wintergreen has a year round appeal. In spring small pinkish white bell-shaped flowers are followed by wintergreen-scented bright red fruits that last until the following spring.The lustrus bright green leaves also wintergreen-scented turn burgandy red in the fall. It grows 6 inches tall and spreads nicely once established. Prefers part to full shade in moist acidic soil rich in humus. There are also low growing of varieties of juniper which are over used as this is what most landscapers turn to as a staple ground cover. Ground covers require little maintenance after they are established. Ground covers maintain moisture levels and choke out weeds. Ground covers are especially good on slopes that are difficult to maintain. Ground cover should be enclosed in edging to keep it from becoming invasive. Use landscape timbers ,brick, or pavers to hold it's growth in check. Another way to control it is to cut it back. Maybe you can find a friend to give it to.

By: Robert Gettle
Robert Gettle bob@bobgettlelandscaping.com http://www.bobgettlelandscaping.com 25 years experience in landscaping.

Featured by Resources For Attorneys, a Legal Information and Lifestyle resources directory.

Visit our Gardening Directory.