Contrary to popular speculation or belief, growing grapes in your backyard is not as difficult as one may presume. When someone mentions the idea of starting a grape garden, one may immediately assume that without acres of free land at their disposal, it will be almost impossible to be successful. This is absolutely NOT true!

As a matter of fact, there are many amateur grape growers today who are content with their small vine garden in their backyard. The grapes they produce are excellent for eating and making wine and the little effort put into it has a high return.

As a full time grape farmer, I have learned the secrets of what it takes to grow the best tasting grapes for decades. As a child I would work with my father on his farm planting and pruning grapevines all day long and continued working with him as a teenager and even now as an adult and family man. I want to teach you how to grow grapes and share with you the secrets of keeping a successful grapevine garden so that you too can enjoy what these delicious fruits have to offer.

First of all backyard grape growing does not require expensive fertilizers or manures. You can get some really good vines from ordinary soil. Another goodie is that you won't have to invest a lot of time in your garden because the roots themselves will seek out what they need. The only thing you need to concern yourself with is where to put the vine itself.

It really is quite amazing how no matter where you plant your vines, all you have to do is train the vines around your house towards the well sun lit areas. If you have an open garden where the sun hits all day long, then that will work even better.

The best time to plant your grapevines is during the fall. Do not let the vines fruit during the first season of planting. Instead, always remember to cut down your vines to about four buds. The reason for this is that those four buds will become the strongest points and will lead the rest of the vine up the wall where you planted them in. You want your grapevine to use all of its energy producing a strong wood for the next season because it is during the second season of growth that you get the best grapes.

Remember that the wood that is born this year will lead to next year's fruits. So during the first year, clip away any flower buds that may form, thus making sure that the vine's energy is focused on producing wood.

When pruning during the summer, you want to cut off all new growth while leaving the old wood to provide for future fruit. Only remove old growth when they become a straggling nuisance hanging all over your garden. When pruning in the fall or early winter, you should cut back the vines this time to about five to six buds only so that once again, the vines will use all their energy for producing strong wood during the winter.

Most grape vines ripen during the late summer, early September. At this time you can enjoy the best tasting home grown grapes and continue preparing your vines for future growths.

Wait! Don't go planting some grapevines you purchased at your local nursery and then wonder why you are getting poor results. Many of these vines come from other states and were cut from a healthy patch which will never have the strength to ripen once taken home. Learn the fundamental procedures of backyard grape growing first before making a mistake!

By: Matt Granger
Matt Granger has been growing grapes for over 30 years and is an expert in backyard grape growing and grapevine farming. Visit his personal grape growing website here: http://www.grapegrowingsecrets.com.

Growing Egg Plants or Aubergines

The eggplant is a member of the potato and tomato family and it originates from the West Indies. They are not an easy crop to grow but home produced aubergines are so wonderful, having so much more flavour than those bought from the shops that they are well worth growing. The egg shaped fruit can be either white or purple though the purple varieties have the better flavour. They are truly appreciated in many parts of the world but cooked properly they can be enjoyed everywhere; no moussaka dish has quite the authentic taste without this delicious ingredient.

Sowing

Sow the seeds in trays in John Innes seed compost in February to March at a temperature of 70 to 86 deg F. (21 to 30deg C.). After germination the temperature should be maintained the same. Prick out seedlings when they have developed several leaves into 3 in. (76mm) pots containing John Innes No 1 potting compost, where they will grow on until they are ready to be transferred into larger pots. The February sowing should be ready to transfer in May and these will then go into 7 in. (177mm) pots containing John Innes No 2 potting compost; allow 18 in. (45cm) between each pot. Temperatures can then be gradually reduced to 62 to 70 deg F. (17 to 21 deg. C.) You can use grow bags instead of pots if you wish but one bag can accommodate only two plants.

Planting Out

If the plants are to be transferred outside they will need to be hardened off first therefore the temperature should be gradually decreased. Wait until June before putting them out side, then all chances of frosts should have passed and the days should be warmer.

General Care

Keep the plants well watered; this is particularly imperative during warm weather, as dry conditions especially around the roots encourage the development of blossom end rot. By the time they have reached 16 in. (40cm) tall, they will need to have the growing tip pinched out to make them send out side shoots.

It is likely that the plants will need some support as the weight of the fruit could break the stems; bamboo canes are useful but care must be taken not to tie in the stems too tightly so that they become damaged. As the plants grow, tie the stems to the bamboo sticks with soft, green cotton twine or raffia. Make sure that the twine or raffia is not too tight so that it does not cut into the stem as it grows. The best method is to wrap the twine or raffia twice around the bamboo then put a loop around the stem securing it to the stick with care.

The plants should be given a weekly high-potash liquid feed. A suitable feed to use is one used for tomatoes though it must be given at half the strength. Mist them twice a day to encourage them to set fruit, it will also prevent attacks from red spider mite. For good size fruits, limit the number to a maximum of four per plant. To do this, pinch out all later forming flowers.

Harvesting

Aubergines are usually ready to harvest from August onwards.

Always cut the fruit from the plants never attempt to pull or twist them off as this generally results in them tearing and damaging the plant, take care as there are prickles around the stem of the plant.

Best varieties to try:

'Epic': Tolerant of tobacco mosaic virus, produces early maturing fruit up to 9 in. 23cm long.

'Moneymaker': A good cropper with long elegant fruits.

'Mini Bambino': Good for growing in a container, small in stature reaching about 12 in. (30cm), small fruits.

'Slice-Rite': Large fruits with excellent flavour, suitable only for greenhouse growing.

By: Terry Blackburn
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com.

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