So you go to your favorite garden shop and purchase two beautiful pepper plants. It took awhile because you had to sort through all the plants to find the best, most healthy ones. And they were not cheap. Seems like the price goes up every year.

You go home and select that perfect spot in the garden and plant your new peppers. The next morning you wander out to the garden with a cup of coffee to admire your new peppers and to see if they have miraculously grown six inches overnight. Then your heart sinks as you discover your plants are gone. Not just nibbled on by some bug...they are gone.

You have just been victimized by the scourge of the garden. Slugs!

Snails and slugs (I'll just refer to slugs hereon) can completely devour a small plant in one sitting. As well as take huge chunks out of the leaves on larger plants. Perhaps slugs have some benefit to mankind, but I can not think of any. Certainly not in my garden. So, how do we get rid of them?

First, no matter what method you eventually use, you must eliminate all debris from your garden and the surrounding area. Slugs are night creatures and do not like being exposed to the open air or daylight. Therefore, they hide and live under rocks, old wood planks or crass clippings. So, the first step in getting rid of them is to remove all their hiding places. Rocks, wooden boards, grass clippings, that old metal tool that has been in the corner for months...they all must be removed.

Then, choose a method to get rid of them.

There are many. Some of the household remedies are:

Beer in a cup: take any small container that will hold liquid and bury the top of the container even with ground level. Fill with stale beer and wait for them to crawl in and drown. The slugs are attracted to the beer and they will crawl into it. This method works but is not sufficient for even a moderate infestation.

Hand Picking: Very simple. Go out into the garden at daybreak and hand pick the slugs. This method also works but is tedious and time consuming. I still do this today in addition to other methods.

Copper strips: You can purchase copper strips at the garden shop made for this purpose. The idea is that you completely surround your garden with a copper strip barrier and slugs will not cross the copper strip. I have found that, while it is helpful, some slugs apparently do cross the barrier.

Snail Bait: This is what I have found to be most effective. However, conventional snail bait is attractive to dogs (looks like dog food) and it is poisonous to dogs and children. I refuse to put a poisonous chemical around plants in my garden that I intend to eat. However, there is a better product.

Most garden shops and large markets today sell a snail bait that is "pet friendly". It cost a little more but is well worth a dollar or two. It is non-poisonous to pets and people. And... it works.

I have used the pet-friendly snail bait for several years and my garden is 99% snail/slug free. You just apply in the afternoon, surrounding the garden or individual plants you want to protect. Re-apply every couple of days as your watering or the rain washes it away.

Start your treatment in the spring before planting the garden and continue for two weeks. Then you can apply about once a week throughout the growing season and you will not have a slug problem.

I have found one or two slugs survive occasionally and make it into the garden. This is very rare and is why I say my garden is 99% slug free instead of 100%. Therefore, I continue to hand pick as necessary on my normal morning walk through the garden.

I wish I could tell you that there is a cheap, effective home remedy for slugs. Like mixing vinegar, ketchup and water or something like that, but the store bought pet-friendly snail bait has proven to me to be the most effective.

By: Ken Miller
Ken Miller is a free lance writer and webmaster for www.basicgardentips.com where you can find many free how-to articles on gardening. He also has a Southern Food Recipe site at olsouthrecipes.com with loads of free recipes.

Submitted by:
Rebecca Thornton
Law - USA

The hawaiian umbrella tree, dwarf schefflera arboricola, in nature grows as a small evergreen shrub. As such, it can be easily trained into bonsai form. The roots respond well to pruning and it is not as picky about watering as many other bonsai trees. As it is an evergreen, it has dark green leaves year round that fan out into an umbrella form which makes it ideal for creating a bonsai style needing a dense canopy. Often times they are used in forest plantings.

What makes the Schefflera Arboricola a good bonsai for beginners?

The hawaiian umbrella tree has many characteristics that make it an excellent choice for beginners. First, it can grow well in lower lighting conditions. Most beginners try to keep their trees indoors. This is one of the trees that actually do well in indoor conditions. They do best in USDA zones 9-11 so most people who live north of Florida, Texas, and California keep them indoors year round without any issues. Of course, they will do their best if the indoor location is exposed to indirect lighting from an east or west facing window or in rooms with fluorescent lighting on for long portions of the day.

Second, schefflera are not very picky about watering conditions. Incorrect watering is how most beginners end up killing their bonsai trees. These trees are pretty forgiving as long as one does not allow the soil to dry out completely. It is good about letting the owner know if it is being overwatered or underwatered. The hawaiian umbrella's leaves will turn black if it is being overwatered or start to curl at the ends if it is being underwatered.

Additionally, they do appreciate high humidity conditions. Indoor conditions tend to be very dry. To increase the humidity around the bonsai it is recommended you place the pot on top of a humidity tray filled with pebbles and water. The evaporating water humidifies the surrounding air. Avoid abnormally dry areas near heaters, furnaces, and fireplaces.

Last, this tree is not picky about the soil you pot it in. Any free draining soil will work fine with this tree whereas with other bonsai species they can be very picky. They are tolerant of clay, sand, and loamy soils. Schefflera do prefer a slightly alkaline soil so adding a little lime in the soil mix can adjust the pH more towards alkaline if so desired.

Styling Considerations

It can be difficult to train this tree into any form other than something with a broad crown similar to a banyan fig. They are not ideal for training into traditional Japanese forms, but they can be made into informal uprights. Most often they are trained into multiple trunk or forest groups. One of their interesting characteristics are their aerial banyan roots that they send down from lower branches. These aerial roots are great when trying root over rock styles. To encourage branching one can pinch stems back. Also, ideally try to repot younger trees every one to two years in the spring. You can aggressively root prune if necessary at that time.

Watering

As mentioned, never let the soil dry out completely. Additionally, never water by a schedule. Instead, water when you notice the soil beginning to dry out. When it is time to water, thoroughly soak the soil by watering from above until the water begins to come out of the pot's drain holes. You may notice the tree will need less water in the winter months.

Final Indoor Considerations

The hawaiian umbrella tree is very resistant to pests and diseases outdoors, but one needs to be on the lookout for pests which it has no predators against indoors if grown there. Be watchful for scale, spider mites, and mealy bugs when this tree is grown indoors. Additionally, all parts of this tree are poisonous so keep this tree away from children, pets, and your skin.

By: David Mello
Written by David Mello for http://www.mellobonsai.com - Premium bonsai trees, supplies, and care information

Submitted by:
Josh Truegood
International Issues from Knowledge Is Power

If you are looking to have a beautiful flower garden full of thriving plants, the best thing you can do is take it one plant at a time. Start small and prepare that small area well by taking into consideration that each flower or plant you put into your garden has special needs. When you take the time to consider those needs, you will ensure the success of each plant and eventually your garden overall.
* Hardiness/Heat Zones
The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map can help you determine which plants will survive the cool temperatures of your geographic location. Typically a plant tag will show two numbers 3-8. This means your flower or plant should grow well in USDA Zones 3-8. Another important factor to consider is how warm your temperatures can become. The AHS Heat-Zone Map can help you with determining plant heat tolerance. If the plant tag is showing four numbers...3-8, 8-1...the first set of numbers indicates the Hardiness Zones, the second set of numbers indicates the Heat-Zones.

* Sunlight
Your beautiful flower garden will depend on sunlight to some degree. Most perennial plants do well in 8 or more hours of direct sunlight each day. However, there are some perennials that prefer a little less sun, maybe 5-8 hours, with shade in the morning and full sun the remainder of the day. There are also those few plants that actually have a strong preference for just a touch of sunlight throughout the day. Keep in mind that most plants that can thrive in full sun in the northern US may need some shade in the mid-summer heat of the south.

* Water
All plants need water or some measure of moisture. Some plants, black-eyed susan, coneflower, and sedum for example, can be categorized as drought tolerant, meaning that they can get by with a bit of moisture from time to time and still manage to grow quite well. Other plants, such as hosta, have an actual need to be watered on a regular basis in order to stay healthy and flourish well for any length of time. If possible, make it easy on yourself and your plants by locating your beautiful flower garden area near your water source.

* Soil
All plants appreciate a nutrient rich soil. Most flowers and plants prefer a loamy soil that is moist but also drains well. If you are fortunate enough to have nutrient rich loam in your garden areas, continue to care for it well to ensure it remains healthy and able to provide you with many years of beautiful blooms. If your soil is mostly sand or clay, you may need to amend or improve it by adding a good peat humus mixture. You can do this easily with each new flower or plant you put into the ground. If your soil is a poorly draining, heavy clay you may even prefer to make raised beds to put your flowers and plants in.

* Flowers and Plants
Finally, when choosing items to plant in your beautiful flower garden, you will want to be sure that you purchase flowers and plants that are healthy and strong. If you buy from a nursery, take a look around while you are there. Are all of the plants healthy looking or are most of them wilting and "on sale" or discounted? You will want to choose plants with healthy stems that are strong and upright. Look for plants with buds as they will have stronger root systems and will adapt easier when transplanted. If all of the flowers in the nursery have blooms, choose healthy looking plants and before planting them in your garden, cut off all the flowers. Your plants will be able to develop new strong roots quicker without flowers and then will be able to produce new blooms for you within a couple weeks time.

By starting small and preparing that small area well, taking into consideration each plant's special needs in regards to:

* hardiness, heat-zone area

* sunlight requirements

* water requirements

* soil requirements

you WILL be ensuring the success of your beautiful flower garden...one plant at a time.

By: Robin Monarch
http://www.Gardening-Quick-n-Easy.com
Are you looking to get your gardening areas set up quickly 'n easily? Be sure to check out this site for some useful flower gardening tips, resources, gardening forum, gifts, and other gardening fun. Also you can download a free PDF copy of the GQnE Color Wheel complete with easy to remember color combining tips.

Submitted by:
Sara Burns
Lifestyle Resources Information

Hosta plants? They're those green plants, right? Well yes; however, hosta are so much more than just those "green plants."
From spring until frost, in various shades of green and blue and gold, hosta can provide a remarkable display in your garden. Let's take a look at a few of the hosta varieties available.

Among those to be considered, you'll want to be sure to check out 'Great Expectations'. This hosta features extremely wide leaves with irregular margins of blue and green surrounding light yellowish cream centers. The leaves of 'Great Expectations' are round and puckered. This plant should be placed close by so you gather the most viewing pleasure available from its beauty.

Suppose you'd like even a bluer-green yet? Then quite possibly 'Halcyon' has what you're looking for. A medium-sized mound of slug-resistant, oval-shaped foliage in a good blue color. An attractive show of pale bluish lavender flowers from late July to mid-August make 'Halcyon' truly a good blue-green choice of foliage for your garden.

Speaking of flowers...if it's fragrant flowers you seek on your hosta, be sure to consider 'Fragrant Bouquet'. A large white pleasantly fragrant flower combines with the bright apple-green foliage and irregular yellow margins to make for a truly remarkable plant. Add to this that 'Fragrant Bouquet' is a highly pest resistant, rapid grower that can prosper in consderable sun and you're sure to tuck in one or two of these hosta among the flowers in your garden.

But you want even more than green, blue-green, and fragrant flowers from the hosta?

Well, how about a touch of bright red?

That's right. 'Cherry Berry' a small rather non-descript mound of white-centered foliage exhibits a spectacular display when in flower. From late July to late August, the light purple flowers on 'Cherry Berry' can be seen growing on bright red scapes. The bright red scapes immediately catch the eye of even the most casual observer. The beautiful color contrast of the flowers, foliage, and scapes of 'Cherry Berry' make it a most interesting plant among the hosta varieties.

So, yes, while it is true that some hosta plants are green...it is also true that hosta are oh so much more than "just green plants!"

By: Robin Monarch
http://www.Gardening-Quick-n-Easy.com
Are you looking to get your gardening areas set up quickly 'n easily? Be sure to check out this site for some useful flower gardening tips, resources, gardening forum, gifts, and other gardening fun. Also you can download a free PDF copy of the GQnE Color Wheel complete with easy to remember color combining tips.

Submitted by:
Sara Burns
Lifestyle Resources Information